Athens Directions Read online

  Athens

  D I R E C T I O N S

  written and researched by

  John Fisher and Paul Hellander

  Rough Guides New Media

  New York · London · Delhi

  www.roughguides.com

  Publishing Information

  This 1st edition published May 2004 by Rough Guides Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL.

  345 Hudson St, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10014, USA.

  Distributed by the Penguin Group

  Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL

  Penguin Group (USA), 375 Hudson Street, NY 10014, USA

  Penguin Group (Australia), 487 Maroondah Highway, PO Box 257, Ringwood, Victoria 3134, Australia

  Penguin Group (Canada), 10 Alcorn Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 1E4

  Penguin Group (NZ), 182–190 Wairau Road, Auckland 10, New Zealand

  © John Fisher May 2004

  The print version of this eBook was typeset in Bembo and Helvetica to an original design by Henry Iles.

  No part of this eBook may be reproduced in any form without permission from the publisher except for the quotation of brief passages in reviews.

  A catalogue record for the print version of this eBook is available from the British Library.

  ISBN 1-84353-314-6

  The publishers and authors have done their best to ensure the accuracy and currency of all the information in Athens DIRECTIONS, however, they can accept no responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconvenience sustained by any traveller as a result of information or advice contained in the guide.

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  Contents

  Introduction

  Ideas

  The big six

  Acropolis

  Classical Athens

  Roman Athens

  Byzantine Athens

  National Archeological Museum

  Cultural museums

  Modern Athens

  Hills and views

  Green Athens

  Restaurants and tavernas

  Cafés and bars

  Music and entertainment

  Nightlife

  Markets and shopping

  Orthodox Athens

  Athens on foot

  Seaside Athens and island escapes

  Out of Athens

  Places

  The Acropolis

  Pláka

  Monastiráki and Psyrrí

  Thissío, Gázi and Áno Petrálona

  Platía Omónias and around

  The Archeological Museum, Exárhia and Neápoli

  Kolonáki & Lykavitós Hill

  Sýndagma and around

  Mets, Pangráti and Koukáki

  Suburban Athens

  Attica

  Further Afield

  Accommodation

  Hotels

  Hostels

  Campsites

  Essentials

  Arrival

  City transport

  Information

  Directory

  Language

  Basics

  Menu reader

  Small print

  A Rough Guide to Rough Guides

  Rough Guide Credits

  Help us update

  The authors

  Acknowledgements

  Introduction

  In most minds, Athens is a city that happened two-and-a-half thousand years ago, and it’s true that even now that past looms large – literally, in the shape of the mighty Acropolis that dominates almost every view, as well as in every visitor’s itinerary. Yet Athens is also home to over four million people, more than a third of the Greek population and is very much a city for the twenty-first century, one that has transformed itself for the 2004 Olympics.

  For many, the stunning remains of the ancient Classical Greek city are the highlight of any visit. The National Archeological Museum has the finest collection of Greek antiquities in the world, and there are plenty of smaller specialist museums. Even on a brief visit, however, it is a shame to see Athens purely as the repository of ancient sites and museum pieces. It’s worth taking the time to explore some of the city’s neighbourhoods: in particular, the old nineteenth-century quarter of Pláka has a delightful mix of Turkish, Neoclassical and Greek island-style architecture and intriguing little museums devoted to traditional arts, from ceramics to musical instruments. Here you’ll also encounter scattered relics of the Byzantine and medieval town that captivated Byron and the Romantics. Just to the north of Pláka, the bazaar area around Athinás and Eólou retains an almost Middle Eastern atmosphere, while the National Gardens and elegant Kolonáki offer respite from the bustling city. Still well within the limits of Greater Athens are the peaceful monasteries of Kessarianí and Dhafní, the latter with Byzantine mosaics the equal of any in Greece.

  There are spectacular bird’s-eye views from the central hills of Lykavitós and Filopáppou, while more adventurous walkers can head for the mountains that ring the city. Springtime hikes here reveal the astonishing range of Greek wild flowers – especially on the vast, largely unspoilt slopes of Mount Párnitha.

  Outside the city itself you’ll find more ancient sites, while sun-worshippers flock to the suburban beach resorts. There’s the chance to escape to the islands, too, several of which can be reached from the busy port of Pireás in just a couple of hours.

  For some, however, the biggest surprise in Athens is the vibrant life of the city itself. Cafés are packed day and night, and the streets stay lively until 3 or 4am, with some of the best bars and clubs in the country. Eating out is great, with establishments ranging from lively tavernas to the finest gourmet restaurants. In summer much of the action takes place outdoors, complemented by open-air films, concerts and classical drama. The extraordinarily diverse shopping scene ranges from colourful bazaars and lively street markets to chic shopping malls filled with the latest designer goods. And with a good-value public transport system – particularly the newly expanded metro – you’ll have no difficulty getting around.

  * * *

  When to visit

  Athens is at its most agreeable outside the peak period of early July to the end of August, when soaring temperatures (sometimes over 40°C), plus crowds of foreigners and locals alike, can be overpowering. Perhaps the best months to visit are May to early June, September and October – temperatures are pleasant (20°C and upwards), and visitors fewer. In April you can also see lovely displays of spring flowers on the surrounding mountains. The winter months can be very cold, and February is often rainy.

  * * *

  Athens at a glance

  The National Archeological Museum

  By far the most important museum in Athens, the National Archeological Museum houses the world’s greatest collection of Cycladic, Minoan, Mycenaean and Classical Greek art.

  Kolonáki

  For fashionable shopping, Kolonáki is the city’s most chic central district. Should you tire of hunting for the latest designer gear, you’ll find some great pavement cafés and restaurants – or come here at night for the bars and buzzing live music venues.

  The Acropolis

  The Acropolis remains the city’s biggest attraction. Dominating its southern slope is the restored second-century Roman Herodes Atticus Theatre, a spectacular setting for performances of music and Classical drama during the summer festival.

  Pláka

  The largely pedestrianized area of Pláka, with its narrow lanes and stepped alleys climbing towards the Acropolis, is perhaps the most attractive part of Athens. It’s touristy, but full of atmosphere and the city’s best for idle wandering.

  Cape Soúnio

  Cape Soúnio’s dramatic setting overlooking the Aegean has m
ade it a landmarkfor centuries to boats sailing between Pireás and the islands. Its tremendous views and evocative Temple of Poseidon certainly impressed Byron – who carved his name on one of the pillars.

  Monastiráki

  While less touristy than Pláka, Monastiráki still has great opportunities for eating, drinking and above all shopping – from flea markets to upmarket designer shops. Often busy and noisy, you’ll still find the occasional quiet oasis in the high-rise urban surroundings.

  Delphi

  Set amongst the massive crags of Mount Parnassós, Delphi is the site of the most important oracle in ancient Greece. Today, its awe-inspiring ruins and spectacular setting make it one of the most memorable excursions from Athens.

  Ideas

  The big six

  Acropolis

  Classical Athens

  Roman Athens

  Byzantine Athens

  National Archeological Museum

  Cultural museums

  Modern Athens

  Hills and views

  Green Athens

  Restaurants and tavernas

  Cafés and bars

  Music and entertainment

  Nightlife

  Markets and shopping

  Orthodox Athens

  Athens on foot

  Seaside Athens and island escapes

  Out of Athens

  The big six

  Athens is still defined above all by the brief period of glory it enjoyed in the fifth century BC – the Golden Age of Classical Athens. The signature image of the city, and an absolute must-see, is the rocky hill of the Acropolis, topped by the Parthenon. Smaller, lesser-known ancient sites are scattered throughout the city centre. The city’s Archeological Museum, too, is one of the world’s greatest, with treasures not just from Athens but from all the cultures of ancient Greece. The modern city is not always beautiful, but it is enjoyable, with its buzzing outdoor restaurants and cafés, great nightlife, and easy access to a spectacular coastline.

  Acropolis

  Crowned by the Parthenon, and surrounded by the major relics of ancient Athens, the Acropolis is one of the archetypal images of Western civilization.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  Lykavitós Hill

  Climb Lykavitós Hill – or take the funicular – for spectacular views of the city, including the Acropolis.

  See KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS HILL

  National Archeological Museum

  The gold Mask of Agamemnon from Mycenae is the biggest crowd-puller in Athens’ premier museum.

  See THE NATIONAL ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM, EXÁRHIA & NEÁPOLI

  Street life

  In summer, life in Athens moves on to the streets, terraces and roof gardens. Dining or drinking al fresco, with the Acropolis as backdrop, can be an unforgettable experience.

  See THISSÍO, GÁZI ÁNO PETRÁLONA

  Tower of the Winds

  On the site of the Roman Forum, the intriguing and well-preserved Tower of the Winds is compass, weather vane, sundial and water-clock in one.

  See MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ

  Temple of Poseidon

  Dominating Cape Sounío, the Temple of Poseidon commands magnificent views of the seas and islands around Athens.

  See ATTICA

  Acropolis

  Exploring the Acropolis and its surrounds can easily absorb an entire day. While the Parthenon is the most imposing of the remains atop the steep-sided hill, it’s far from the only one; the Acropolis has an extraordinary concentration of superlative Classical architecture, all of it dating from just a few decades at the height of ancient Athenian democracy. The Acropolis Museum houses many of the treasures from the site and hopes one day to complete its collection with the returned Parthenon Marbles.

  The Erectheion

  The most sacred of the ancient temples and a superb example of Ionic architecture, the Erectheion’s south porch is supported by six larger-than-life maidens – the Caryatids.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  The Propylaia

  The imposing entrance to the Acropolis now as in Classical times, the Propylaia were considered by ancient Athenians to be their most prestigious monument.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  Acropolis son et lumière

  The Acropolis is spectacularly lit at night throughout the summer, effects that can be enjoyed from vantage points across the city.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  Acropolis Museum

  Containing almost all the treasures removed from the site since the 1830s, the museum includes fine sculptures that once adorned the Acropolis buildings, such as the Kritias Boy pictured here.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  The Parthenon Marbles

  Part of the pediment of the Parthenon has been reconstructed in the Acropolis Museum – although the Elgin Marbles remain in the British Museum, despite a long Greek campaign to reclaim them.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  Classical Athens

  In the fifth century BC, the city-state of Athens suddenly found itself secure and wealthy, having defeated the Persians and risen to dominate their mainland rivals. They celebrated their success by a radical experiment with democracy, and with a flourishing of art, architecture, literature and philosophy whose influences imbue Western culture to this day. The physical remains of the Classical Golden Age are still to be seen everywhere in Athens, and with the city’s reconstruction more is emerging almost daily.

  Stoa of Attalos

  The reconstruction of the Stoa of Attalos, part of the ancient Athenian marketplace, shows how Classical Athens might have looked in its heyday, and houses the Museum of the Agora.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  Theatre of Dionysos

  The stunning theatre where the masterpieces of Classical drama were first performed.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  Kerameikos

  A tranquil, little-visited site that incorporates the cemetery of ancient Athens as well as fragments of the city walls, gates and the roads that led to them.

  See THISSÍO, GÁZI & ÁNO PETRÁLONA

  Temple of Athena Nike

  Small but perfectly formed, this temple to Athens’ patron goddess encapsulates the ideals of Classical architecture.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  Monument of Lysikratos

  In a quiet corner of Pláka, this is a lone survivor of what was once a long line of similar monuments celebrating victory in ancient drama contests.

  See PLÁKA

  Roman Athens

  The Romans controlled Athens for some eight hundred years, but they left relatively few monuments. On the whole they respected the artistic and architectural heritage of Classical Athens, while the city itself became something of a backwater of the Empire. There were, however, two great benefactors in particular whose legacy has survived: the Emperor Hadrian and Herodes Atticus, a wealthy Roman senator.

  Tower of the Winds

  Situated in the Roman forum, this curious yet graceful octagonal tower has each of its well-preserved faces decorated with a relief of the eight winds.

  See MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ

  Hadrian’s Arch

  Erected by Hadrian to mark the division between the ancient Greek city and the modern Roman one, this imposing arch rises to a height of eighteen metres.

  See SÝNDAGMA & AROUND

  The Roman Forum

  Built by Julius and Augustus Caesar as an extension of the busy Greek marketplace, the Roman Forum is one of the main attractions in Monastiráki. The site includes the oldest Mosque in Athens, the Fethiye Tzami.

  See MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ

  Hadrian’s Library

  You can only admire it from the other side of a fence, but the scale of the Emperor’s structure is truly impressive.

  See MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ

  Odeion of Herodes Atticus

  The partly reconstructed theatre at the foot of the Acropolis is today a stunning setting for events at the annual Hellenic festival.
r />   See THE ACROPOLIS

  The Areopagus

  This low, rocky hill below the Acropolis has rich historical significance: in ancient times it was the site of the Council of Nobles and the Judicial Court, and later St Paul preached here, setting in train the conversion of Athens to Christianity.

  See THE ACROPOLIS

  Byzantine Athens

  When the Roman empire split, Athens came under the control of Byzantium (Constantinople) and the Byzantine empire. The schools of philosophy were closed, and many of the city’s “pagan” temples converted to churches. The legacy of the early Christians is a series of beautiful ancient monasteries, as well as museums and wonderful frescoes and icons.

  Dhafní Monastery

  The fortress-like exterior of the Monastery of Dhafní, on the western fringes of Athens, gives little clue of the glories within.

  See SUBURBAN ATHENS

  Christ Pantokrator

  Christ sits in majesty at the heart of the world-famous cycle of mosaics in Dhafní Monastery.

  See SUBURBAN ATHENS

  Byzantine and Christian Museum

  The richness of many of the icons on display is typical of the Byzantine era’s artistic styles.

  See KOLONÁKI AND LYKAVITÓS

  Kapnikaréa

  The eleventh-century church of Kapnikaréa, right in the heart of Athens, makes for an extraordinary contrast to the packed shopping streets surrounding it.

  See MONASTIRÁKI & PSYRRÍ

  National Archeological Museum

  Athens’ National Archeological Museum is among the world’s greatest museums, with an unrivalled collection of ancient Greek art. It spans every era from prehistoric and the development of Mycenaean and Minoan culture, through Classical Greece and on to Roman and early Byzantine times. Extensive renovation for the 2004 Olympics has provided a setting to match the contents. Highlights are the finds from graves at Mycenae, and from the excavations of Akrotíri on the island of Thíra (Santorini).

  The museum building

  The imposing Neoclassical building housing the Museum occupies an entire block, set back from the street amid jungly gardens.